
MEATS WITH APPROVAL — COOKING: Alpine Village sausage maker who offers a link with the old country continues to rack up award for his products.
By: Dennis Johnson, Daily Breeze staff writer
There’s a point in the wiener-making process where you’re not too sure that you’re looking at meat anymore.
It’s not disgusting or revolting, nor does it bring to mind a crusading Upton Sinclair, it’s just that after the beef, pork, veal, and spices have gone a few rounds with the bowl chopper, the cuts of meat resemble a thick puree.
Only when the mixture is fed into a casing and the links are twisted, smoked and cooked does the alchemic nature of sausage making take shape. It’s this place, between whole pieces of meat and the familiar form of a frankfurter, where Alex Lagger dwells.
Lagger is Alpine Village’s maestro of meat. Its head sausage master.
“When I go out and people ask me what I do, I say I’m a sausage maker. They ask, `What is that?’ ” said the 40-year-old Lagger, who has been bringing the bratwurst to European expatriates for 13 years.
Rather than explain, Lagger needs only point to the deli case of the Alpine Village market Continue reading →